Ceiling. Thursday , November 22nd , 2018 - 04:26:56 AM
Remember to tie a piece of caution tape on any water shutoffs, gas shutoffs, outside faucet shut offs, or anything else that you will want to access later after the drywall is permanently hung! Otherwise you will never be able to access these important items at a later date. Just tie caution tape right on the handles or the center of all of the items you will need to access later, then when the drywall ceiling is being hung, just cut a 2\" hole out of the drywall so that the caution tape can be pulled through that hole. After the drywall is finished and paint-ready we will be installing finished plastic access panels at each of these locations so we can easily access all of our mechanical items forever!
3. Efficiency Value of Tin Ceilings Besides the ornamental beauty of the tin ceilings they also ad efficiency to your heating system. Even after your heating unit kicks off the tin ceiling will help hold the heat longer. Tin tiles beside and above your fireplace can catch and reflect heat. They are also valuable for their flame resistance.
A dropped or suspended ceiling is another option for your basement. These ceilings have a grid work of metal bars in the shape of an upside-down T, these are suspended on wires from the overhead joists. A dropped ceiling is great because there is no need for you to move wires, pipes or ducts and the joists don't have to be straight for the finished ceiling to look flat. This type of basement ceiling finishing will give you easy access to heating, cooling and electrical systems. Adding some lighting fixtures can be done with ease as well. In addition to that, a dropped ceiling shields unwanted noise from above. However, one of the biggest disadvantages of a dropped or suspended ceiling is that it eats up too much head space so if you already have a very low basement ceiling then you might want to look into this first.
Solution? Simply \"fir-down\"(or make lower) these sections of \"ceiling-scape\" with 2\"x4\"'s! Just nail-up long 16'-0\" sections of 2\"x4\"'s from end-to-end in all of these areas, running them parallel with the duct-work runs (perpendicular to the existing floor joists). By doing this we make these sections of ceiling 1-1/2\" lower, and this gets all of our framing below all the pipes and wires that used to be our drywall's road! We can now drywall right over everything that used to be in our way with ease!
I helped a friend of mine finish his basement but he was not sure what type of ceiling he wanted to put in. There are several options like traditional drywall, tongue and groove boards, acoustic ceiling tiles and drop ceiling, so we analyzed each option.
Well we are going to FRAME our way right around all of it, and it's really very simple to do! Looking at it now it might seem a little overwhelming, but what we will do is break the ceiling framing down into a few stages, starting with the framing of the duct-work 1st!
Quote from high ceiling curtains ideas :
Ordinarily I will choose the space between my window framework and crown molding (or ceiling), split it in half, and also move a few inches over my half mark as I don't like spaces above and under the pole (only a designer pet peeve I guess ). Obviously, when you have very substantial ceilings, this principle varies. Consider taking a very long bit of blue painter's tape and creating a line over your window onto your wall in which you feel that will hang your pole, how does this look? Move it up a little and take a second look.
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